While Norfolk has gained a reputation for its farm-to-fork produce its beer is perhaps less renowned (and by ‘beer’ I mean proper real ale from a cask, rather than the ubiquitous fizzy keg ‘craft’ stuff passed off for it these days).
However this is beginning to change. The county has a number of well-established microbreweries and beer festivals, and for the past decade Norwich has promoted itself as the City of Ale.
Since we’ve had the lodge we’ve made it our mission to sample the best real ale from Norfolk and the Waveney Valley. Our findings are below – and we’ll update this blog periodically as we explore further – let us know what we’re missing!
Breweries
Green Jack Brewery, Lowestoft
As a general rule of thumb the mark of a good local pub is the presence of ales from this most easterly brewery in the country. Green Jack provides a range of seasonal ales but its Trawlerboys bitter (4.6%) is deservedly popular year round. It’s based in a small industrial unit on the outskirts of Lowestoft. There is no taproom but you can drive up and takeaway a selection of 500ml bottles to enjoy back at the lodge.
Humpty Dumpty Brewery, Reedham
This microbrewer – named not after the nursery rhyme but after locomotives that ran from Norwich to Lowestoft – has been going since 1998. It has a little shop in Reedham with suntrapped picnic benches outside where you can sup its ales.
We visited during the Coronation weekend where it put on two special ales to mark the occasion – a lighter All the Kings Horses (4.1%) and a darker All the Kings Men (4.1%). Both were delicious and we took away some of the latter in a 4-pint carton.
Check its website for taproom opening days, and note Reedham also has a couple of good riverside pubs in The Ship and The Ferry Inn if you are still thirsty.
Bull of the Woods, Bungay
This is a tiny family brewery run from a barn on a farm near Bungay. It brews a small selection of beers but is well worth a visit to take away freshly filled cartons of foaming ale. We sampled its Rocksteady session bitter (3.8%) and its Inca Gold (4.4%). There is no official taproom (though it would be a perfect spot for one!) though we were told it sometimes opens casually for drinks on Friday evenings in summer – call ahead.
Woodfordes Brewery
No blog about the best real ale in Norfolk would be complete without mention of Woodfordes, which is to Norfolk what Adnams is to Suffolk. Its (somewhat large and touristy) brewery and shop is based near Wroxham and its dependable Wherry amber session ale (3.8%) and Nog dark ale (4.6%) are available across the county (the former occasionally in the Fritton Lake clubhouse.)
Real Ale pubs
Green Dragon, Bungay
This pub is quite simply the best real ale pub we’ve visited near Fritton Lake to date, while the Huffington Post goes further in asserting that it is “Quite possibly the best pub in the known-world”. The pub brews onsite with an embarrassment of real ales that change regularly such as its Dragon Gold (4.4%). It reeks of atmosphere and serves top-notch Canadian Poutine – chips topped with curds and gravy – perfect comfort food to soak up the ale.
Bungay itself is a haven of independent shops served by the trusty 580 bus that stops by the entrance of Fritton Lake.
The Locks Inn Community Pub, Geldeston
On a summer’s day, there are fewer finer places to enjoy a real ale than this remote community pub with its large family and dog-friendly garden beside the Waveney. Getting here is half the fun – it is hidden away down single track roads with very limited parking, and arguably simpler to reach by boat than it is by car. You can walk (45 mins), canoe or paddleboard, or catch a Big Dog Ferry from Beccles Lido to Geldeston Lock. Real ales (and ciders) vary throughout the year but Green Jack brewery ales are usually on tap.
The Jolly Sailors, Pakefield
This quirky pub with sea views is best enjoyed after a bracing walk along the long, dune-filled sands of the never-crowded Pakefield beach. Pakefield itself is famous for being one of the earliest known areas of human habitation in the UK after flint tools dating back 700,000 years were found.
The somewhat exhausting birthday card sloganeering that decks every surface of the Jolly Sailors (“Never mind the dog. Beware of the wife” sort of thing) is just as dated, but it’s a cosy, friendly pub that is clearly at the centre of its community. It takes its beer seriously and when we visited had a good selection of real ales from different breweries.